Singing Stones and Silent Steps

A Camino Reflection from Villarmentero de Campos to Alto de Poio

 

By Maura Shaftoe – Businesswoman, Refirement Ambassador, Musician & Pilgrim

 

The morning in Villarmentero de Campos broke gently – a soft veil of mist lay over the Castilian fields, and the air was cool with the kind of quiet that invites deep breath and long thoughts. I laced up my boots and hoisted my pack, still bearing the weight of both worldly things and the stories I’ve been trying to let go. Another day on the Camino.

 

Distance from Villarmentero de Campos to Alto de Poio: approximately 110 km (68 miles). I’ve spread this over several days – not rushing, not racing. Just walking. Being.

 

Day 1: Villarmentero de Campos to Carrión de los Condes

 

A short and contemplative walk. I passed the quirky albergue in Villarmentero with its brightly painted walls and playful sculptures. The Meseta stretched on – golden and flat – while I reflected on the tempo of life back home, the meetings and deadlines, the cluttered calendar. By the time I arrived in Carrión de los Condes, my pace had slowed, not from fatigue but from reverence.

 

Landmark: Santa María del Camino church – I lit a candle here, thinking of those I’ve led and those I’ve loved.

 

Day 2-3: Carrión de los Condes to Sahagún (39 km over two days)

 

This stretch across the Meseta was meditative, almost hypnotic. Long stretches with little shade, but plenty of time for reflection. I thought about my music – unfinished songs, quiet ideas stored on my phone. Here, a melody came to me, inspired by the endless horizon.  I am surprised at how busy the El Camino is and how sometimes it can be quite challenging to find a bed for the night.

 

Landmarks: San Zoilo Monastery near Carrión – a moment of stillness under ancient arches.

Puente Fitero, an old Roman bridge that reminded me how many feet have walked this way before mine.

 

Sahagún was vibrant with history. I rested well here, listening to fellow pilgrims’ stories. Some cried, some laughed. I just listened.

 

Day 4-5: Sahagún to León (54 km over two days)

 

More rolling countryside, and signs of modern life returning as I approached León. A larger city, a change in rhythm. Yet even here, the Camino spirit holds, in quiet side chapels, kind café owners, and the wide-eyed wonder of first-time pilgrims.

 

Landmarks: León Cathedral with its stained glass took my breath away. I sat in the pews for a while, composing verses in my head about light, colour, and kindness.

Convent of San Marcos was once a hospital for pilgrims, now echoing with footsteps like mine.

 

Day 6: León to Hospital de Órbigo (37 km over two days) although generally well, took this opportunity to see a naturopath who really helped and advised me to change to a more flexible shoe which has really helped with the pain and bruising.

 

Leaving León, the modern city gives way to rural calm. At Hospital de Órbigo, I crossed the legendary bridge of Paso Honroso, an elegant arc of medieval stones.

 

Landmark: That bridge held echoes of knights and vows, and I thought about the promises we make to ourselves. Mine was to listen more, to the world, to my heart, and to the silence.

 

Day 7-8: Astorga to Alto de Poio (40 km over two days)

 

From Astorga, the climb began and leaving the flatlands behind me, I entered the foothills of Galicia. The villages became smaller, the air crisper, the path more rugged. 

 

Milestones: Cruz de Ferro I am managing much better now and realise my rucksack is a small weight, symbolic of bigger ones I have carried through life.

El Acebo isa beautiful mountain hamlet with views that begged a pause and a verse.

 

Arriving at Alto de Poio, the highest point of the Camino Francés, I felt lighter in body, in spirit. The winds here seem to sing themselves.

 

A rest here overnight before looking Ahead to Samos.   The monastery there is calling to me, I’ve read it hums with tranquility. I imagine writing a full song there, perhaps even finishing one that began back in León.

 

Final Thoughts: In this leg I’ve walked about 110 km but The Camino isn’t about the distance. It’s about presence. Each step has peeled back another layer of what I thought I needed to be. Here, I am just Maura. A woman with a ukulele, a journal, and a heart open to whatever comes next.  And the road, ever faithful, continues.