Week 1:
Walking the Camino de Santiago from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Logroño
Day 1: The Mountains and Me
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The first day was, frankly, brutal but beautiful. Climbing up through the Pyrenees was not easy. The path was steep, the air crisp, and the scenery? Jaw-dropping. Wild horses, eagles soaring overhead, and wide open views that made you feel both incredibly small and wildly alive.
I arrived in Roncesvalles with sore legs and a full heart. The town, with its Gothic-style church and centuries of pilgrim history, felt like the perfect place to reflect on the first day. Tired? Yes. But deeply content.
Day 2: Forests and Hemingway
From Roncesvalles, the path weaves through rolling hills and forested trails, dotted with small, quiet villages. One of them, Burguete, once played host to Ernest Hemingway, and I could see why he loved it. It’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down, eat well, and enjoy the moment.
Terrain on day 2 was actually quite treacherous in part.. there were open slabs of rock and mud on a steep downhill.
I chatted with fellow pilgrims over café con-leche and slices of tortilla, already feeling a growing sense of camaraderie that defines the Camino.
Day 3: Into the City
The third day took me alongside the Arga River, past stone bridges and grazing sheep, all the way to Pamplona. Yes, the town famous for the Running of the Bulls. But beyond the adrenaline-fuelled festival, the city itself is a gem.
After days in the countryside, Pamplona felt electric. I wandered the medieval old town, tasted Pintxos in lively bars, and stood in awe before the Cathedral of Santa MarÃa. It's a striking blend of spiritual tradition and vibrant urban life.
Day 4: Wind and Wine
Leaving the city behind, I climbed up to the Alto del Perdón, where modern wind turbines hum alongside a striking sculpture of medieval pilgrims — a powerful reminder of the countless souls who’ve walked this path before me.
From there, the trail led down through vineyards and olive groves, eventually arriving at Puente la Reina, named for its elegant Romanesque bridge built to help pilgrims cross the river centuries ago. It’s one of the Camino’s most photographed spots, and for good reason.
Day 5: History and Hospitality
This was a day of Romanesque churches, wheat fields, and ancient stone paths. I passed tiny hermitages and paused for a picnic of bread, cheese, and local chorizo under the shade of an olive tree. The simplicity of it all — the food, the walk, the quiet — felt deeply nourishing.
Estella welcomed me like a storybook town, full of bridges, winding lanes, and charming plazas that begged for an afternoon stroll.
Day 6: The Wine Fountain
Let me say this clearly: there is a free wine fountain for pilgrims on the Camino. And yes, it’s as amazing as it sounds.
Just outside Estella, the Irache Monastery offers water... and wine. It’s both a literal and symbolic reminder of the generosity and joy that seem to be baked into the Camino experience.
The walk to Los Arcos that day was gentle — a perfect counterbalance to the initial mountain grind.
Day 7: Final Stretch into Wine Country
The last leg to Logroño was the longest day, and by the end, my feet knew every kilometre. But walking through the La Rioja wine region, with its rolling fields and grapevines stretching into the distance, was a powerful finale.
Logroño itself was vibrant and full of life. Its famous Calle Laurel, packed with tapas bars and happy locals, was the perfect place to celebrate. A plate of sizzling mushrooms, and laughter shared with new friends from around the world — that’s how my Camino segment ended.
More Than a Walk
Along the way, I experienced a rich mix of Basque, Navarrese, and Riojan cultures, tasted some of the best food of my life, and had space — real space — to think, breathe, and just be. There were moments of solitude and deep reflection. There were churches where I lit candles for people I love. There were blisters, sure, but also belly laughs, shared meals, and stories from fellow travellers that will stay with me forever.
This journey isn’t just about the destination. It’s about the rhythm of your steps, the kindness of strangers, the beauty of a path walked by thousands — and now, walked by me.